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July 01, 2009

Syncline 2007 Subduction White

The Syncline 2007 Subduction White (14.1%) is a blend of 69% viognier and 31% chardonnay. In the glass, this wine was a beautiful golden yellow color, delivering some fruit to the nose, although it was mostly notes of over ripe melon and pineapple. The Subduction White had an overly viscous, cloying mouthfeel, almost to the point of being syrupy. The over ripe tropical fruit notes predominated along with a creaminess that was off putting. It finished with a funk that comes when viognier is not at its best. We paired the Syncline with roasted chicken thighs and onions on steamed...

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June 29, 2009

Milbrandt Vineyards 2007 Traditions Riesling

The 2007 vintage is an improvement on the Milbrandt Vineyards Traditions Riesling Columbia Valley, having not especially liked their 2006 bottling. Milbrandt's 2007 riesling (12.5%) is a light, golden yellow in the glass, offering tropical fruit notes with a hint of minerality. This Washington riesling provided good fruit and a touch of sweetness balanced with crisp acidity. We paired this wine with spicy Thai beef stir fried with shallots, peanuts, and chilis, served on a bed of green leaf lettuce, carrots, and cucumbers. The Milbrandt riesling (12.5%) was made for spicy food, as the off-dry style combined with the bright...

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Grochau Cellars 2007 Pinot Noir Willamette Valley

The GC 2007 Pinot Noir Willamette Valley (13.5%) was a garnett. slightly cloudy, red in the glass, offering perfumed notes of strawberry and cherry fruit. This was a very bright, very fruity Oregon pinot noir, with bold cherry flaovrs but not much in the finish. The Grochau Cellars pinot was paired with grilled pork loin, fresh Washington asparagus, and a rice pilaf. At $20, it was a decent Oregon pinot, one that didn't blow me away, but didn't turn me off either. As such, I would buy another bottle for another go - it would be interesting to see...

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June 22, 2009

Oregon pinot noir at $25 and under

Over the last few months, I have had a number of friends ask me about a decent, food-friendly wine priced at or below $25. When faced with this question, it is hard not to suggest an Oregon pinot noir from the 2007 vintage. As evidenced by the coverage here at BeyondtheBottle.com, I am finding the 2007 pinot noirs from Oregon to be very drinkable and incredibly enjoyable with any meal. Best of all, there are some really good wines being produced at $25 or less. Here are the wines I recommend in this price range: Arcane Cellars 2007 Pinot Noir...

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H Wines 2007 Pinot Noir Willamette Valley

A clear ruby red in the glass, the Hamacher "H" 2007 Pinot Noir Willamette Valley (13.5%) offered notes of strawberries, cherries, and raspberries fresh picked in the fields with hints of earth and soil. This Oregon pinot noir delivered fresh fruit flavors with good acidity and a lasting cherry finish. It paired well with Mesquite grilled organic whole chicken, fresh Washington asparagus, and a Caprese salad. At $25, this wine offers a decent quality-price ratio, which would compel me to buy another bottle or two for later in the year. Related Links Hamacher Wine Notes Dr. Vino's Review...

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June 21, 2009

Domaine Serene 2004 Yamhill Cuvee Pinot Noir

The Domaine Serene 2004 Yamhill Cuvee Pinot Noir Willamette Valley (14.1%) was a slightly cloudy, garnet red in the glass, delivering notes of strawberry, cherry, and raspberry fruit, followed by earth and cola. Wonderful fruit and acidity combined in a pleasant mouth feel from the smooth tannins leading to a long delicious finish. We paired this $35 Oregon pinot noir with grilled King salmon seasoned with olive oil, Kosher salt, and ground pepper served on a bed of lentils alongside a salad of tomoatoes, feta cheese and olives. A Greek yogurt sauce with cucumbers, fresh dill, and peppers made...

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June 16, 2009

Domaine Drouhin 2007 Arthur Chardonnay Dundee Hills

Ah, what a terrific wine the Domaine Drouhin 2007 Arthur Chardonnay Dundee Hills (13.9%) is to the eyes, nose, and mouth. It's not often that I would spend $30 on a bottle of white wine, but this Oregon chardonnay is well worth every penny. A light, golden straw color in the glass, the Arthur was a very aromatic, floral wine, delivering notes of pear, honeysuckle, and pineapple. These scents repeated themselves as flavors, with a fullness to the wine that was not cloying, offering a long, lasting finish. The acidity was very well balanced, making this a delicious food-friendly...

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J. Scott Cellars 2007 Pinot Blanc Willamette Valley

The J. Scott Cellars 2007 Pinot Blanc Willamette Valley (13.5%) was a greenish, gold straw color in the glass, offering some volatile aromas of tropical fruit. Flavors of ripe melon, pineapple, and apple were present along with balanced acidity and residual sugar. We paired this $15 Oregon pinot blanc with chicken enchiladas in a tomatilla and chili sauce with a green leaf lettuce and sliced avocado salad on the side. Overall, it was okay, but not a wine that would compel me to buy another bottle. Related Links J. Scott Wine Notes...

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June 08, 2009

Maysara 2008 Pinot Blanc McMinnville

What a terrific Oregon pinot blanc, reminding me once again how delicious this variety can be. The Maysara 2008 Pinot Blanc McMinnville (13%) is the first Demeter certified biodynamic wine in the Pacific Northwest, according to the Maysara web site, which makes drinking this that much more pleasant. In the glass, the Maysara pinot blanc is a clear, light golden straw color, offering these delightful floral aromas of honeysuckle combined with pineapple and melon. Flavors of pear and green apple predominate with a crisp acidity and enticing minerality. We paired this wine with teriyaki chicken thighs on steamed rice....

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June 07, 2009

Nicholas Cole 2005 Camille Columbia Valley

With a rib-eye grilling on a mesquite wood fire last night, I headed down to the cellar wanting something big and bold to pair with my Texas-style steak. Scanning the racks, I noticed the Nicholas Cole 2005 Camille Columbia Valley Red Wine (14.6%), a bottle I received free as part of a mixed case prize from Northwest Palate magazine. The Camille is a blend of merlot (45%), cabernet franc (28%), cabernet sauvignon (26%), and petit verdot (1%), with the merlot coming from Canoe Ridge and the rest from the Nicholas Cole estate vineyards in Walla Walla. In the glass,...

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June 06, 2009

Syncline 2007 Pinot Noir Columbia Gorge

The Syncline 2007 Pinot Noir Celilo Vineyard (13.8%) is a clear standout amongst the few producers who craft pinot noir from Washington grown fruit. I've sampled a variety of Washington pinot noirs these last few years and have found none that have met the quality bar, at least according to my subjective palate. However, this Columbia Gorge wine offers an intriguing taste profile due to its old vine fruit, sourced from the Celilo Vineyard, which was planted in 1972. The Syncline is a very drinkable wine. Even still, it might disappoint the diehard Oregon pinot noir drinker, as it...

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Raptor Ridge 2007 Pinot Noir WV

The Raptor Ridge 2007 Pinot Noir Willamette Valley (13.5%) was a clear garnet color in the glass delivering ripe cherry, dusty earth, toasted caramel, and jammy aromas to the nose. This Oregon pinot noir was a bit viscous in the mouth, being long on jammy fruit flavors and short on acidity, causing it to come off as flat. We paired the Raptor Ridge with grilled Copper River sockeye salmon, roasted Washington asparagus, and tomato orzo. It was a delicious Pacific Northwest dinner, however, the Raptor Ridge fell a bit short of our preference in Oregon pinot noir. At $33,...

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King Estate 2007 Oregon Pinot Noir

The King Estate 2007 Oregon Pinot Noir Signature Collection (13%) was a clear, ruby red in the glass, offering notes of dusty earth, slightly sour strawberry fruit, and hints of herbs. On the palate, this pinot delivered flavors of strawberry and cherry fruit with an earthiness that was pleasing along with its food-friendly acidity. All of this led to a nice, long finish, making it a delicious accompaniment to our Korean bbq hangar steak, sliced into strips and then placed into lettuce leaves along with chopped green onions, toasted sesame seeds, cilantro, rice and julienned carrots. At $27, the...

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May 28, 2009

When good wine goes Brett

That fresh, fruit forward, balanced wine you sampled years ago and purchased a few bottles to set back for a while? It's now got a gamey or Band-Aid taste to it. The culprit? Most likely it's a case of brettanomyces, a yeast that in some instances can add "character" to a wine, while in others can be a total turn off. I recently encountered two cases of brett in wine, both of which helped me realize that I have a high sensitivity toward a particular compound, 4-ethylpheno (4EP), which tends to impart smells of a barnyard or stable as well...

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May 25, 2009

Broadley Vineyards 2007 Estate Pinot Noir

The Broadley Vineyards 2007 Estate Pinot Noir Willamette Valley (13.5%) was a deep ruby red in the glass offering notes of fresh raspberry and cherry fruit with hints of earth. These flavors continued to open up with every glass we enjoyed with our grilled Copper River king salmon which was served on a bed of herbed orzo with fresh asparagus and a caprese salad alongside. At $33, this was a more expensive Oregon pinot noir than others I have been drinking in the 2007 vintage. Although it offered fruit sourced from its vineyards, I am not sure if this...

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Brooks 2007 Riesling Willamette Valley

This Oregon riesling offered a delicious pairing with a spicy, lamb kefta dinner one night. In fact, it became the Brooks 2007 Riesling Willamette Valley became an instant hit with our meal, offering acidity to cut the rich lamb with sweetness to cool the heat. In the glass, the Brooks riesling was a clear, light straw color delivering a slight petrol signature followed by distinct notes of wet stones. There was an appealing minerality to this crisp, light wine, one that carried itself through a long finish. The Brooks (11.2%) offers a style in riesling that is a clear...

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Sleight of Hand "The Magician" 2007 Gewurztraminer

This Columbia Valley gewurztraminer, Sleight of Hand's "The Magician" (12.7%), is a clear, straw yellow color in the glass, delivering tropical floral scents to the nose. Flavors of ripe pineapple and creamy coconut remind one of a piña colada. Too creamy, viscous for my taste, as I was hoping for more spice and acidity along with the slightly residual sweetness. Purchased at retail for $17. Related Links Sleight of Hands "The Magician" Web Page...

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Kyra 2007 Chenin Blanc Columbia Valley

The Kyra Chenin Blanc 2007 Columbia Valley ($13), with 1.5% residual sugar and a syrupy viscousness to it, is too much sweetness for my taste. I enjoy off-dry wines with spicy foods, but the Kyra (12.8%) was just not my style. It was like sugar cane in the glass. Related Links Washington Wine Report Review...

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Meditrina (5) NV

The Meditrina (5) is an approachable blend of syrah (48%), pinot noir (27%), and zinfandel (25%) from Sokol Blosser in Oregon. In the glass, this wine looks like a syrah, with a deep purple color, while delivering notes of red berry fruits, earth, and toast. This is a very drinkable wine, one that offered good fruit, balanced acidity, and a decent finish. We paired it with a dinner of a rich, hearty sausage sauce on soft polenta with fresh roasted asparagus alongside. At 10,000 cases, a $15 price point, a stylistic name/label, and it's own web site, the Medtrina...

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May 19, 2009

Paul Gregutt 2.0

For more than a decade, I have enjoyed following Paul Gregutt's column in The Seattle Times, as his coverage of the Washington and Oregon wine scene has broadened my exposure to wines and wineries I might have otherwise overlooked. Along the way, I may not have always agreed with Gregutt's opinions or his approach toward covering wine, but I was better off for reading his column. During the last few years, I started getting the sense that there was something more that Gregutt had to offer. This sense came from attending a Taste Washington 2008 seminar he led featuring the...

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May 18, 2009

Review: Adamant Cellars Winery

One of the aspects I enjoy most about visiting new wineries is that you are usually served by the winemaker him/herself. It's a great opportunity to not only meet the person behind the wines you're sampling, but more importantly to hear firsthand their motivations to getting into the business and their approach toward their craft. Entering Adamant Cellars on a late March Sunday afternoon, I was immediately approached by Devin, founder/winemaker, who proceeded to pour several of his wines at no charge. Along the way, he offered stories about growing up in Portland and learning to make wine from...

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Review: Kontos Cellars Winery

To see firsthand that starting a winery can be a full time family affair, all one needs to do is walk into a tasting room and see kids hanging out. Such was the case when I arrived at Kontos Cellars, where I had the privilege of meeting Chris Kontos and his young daughter working one Sunday afternoon in late March. Kontos Cellars is one of several incubator wineries built in an identical group of buildings on the northeastern edge of the Walla Walla Regional Airport industrial park. Kontos and its neighbors each have a six year lease on their...

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May 17, 2009

Review: Mannina Cellars Winery

If you're looking for evidence of things changing out at the Walla Walla airport, then look no further than Mannina Cellars. This winery is located on a street containing several newly constructed buildings housing some upstart winemakers in the valley. The backdrop of wheat fields and the Blue Mountains just behind this stretch of wineries is just beautiful. On the Sunday afternoon I visited, a Walla Walla Community College eunology student was working in the tasting room, pouring a merlot and a red blend with no tasting fees attached. I was impressed when the young woman behind the counter...

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Review: Dunham Cellars Winery

Dunham Cellars is located at the Walla Walla airport in an area that used to serve as the hangars and barracks for flight test crews during WWII. It is an interesting setting and Eric Dunham, winemaker/founder, has made the most of it converting their building into a combination tasting room and "hanger lounge". On the Sunday afternoon I visited, there were eight different wines being poured for a $5 tasting fee, which was refundable with purchase. These wines included a chardonnay, two rielsings, two cab sauvs, two syrahs, and a red blend. The woman serving me was very knowledgeable...

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Review: Otis Kenyon Tasting Room

What a terrific experience I had at the Otis Kenyon tasting room in downtown Walla Walla. On the Sunday afternoon I visited in late March, I was greeted by Jessica, who proceeded to pour four distinct red wines with no tasting fees attached. These included a cab sauv and a syrah, both 100% varietal makeup, as well as a malbec and a carmenere, both blends. Jessica is the type of person you want working in a tasting room, for she is well trained about serving and well informed about the wines she pours. Even better, she's a good story...

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Review: Zerba Cellars Tasting Room

Just south of Walla Walla across the WA-OR border on highway 11 is the Zerba Cellars tasting room. It is located inside a modern log cabin next door to one of their estate vineyards. On the Sunday I visited, Marilyn Zerba was pouring a broad flight of wines for about half a dozen folks, with everyone clearly having a good time. I really enjoyed meeting Marilyn and hearing her story about how she and Cecil, her husband, were long standing nursery owners in the area who decided to go into the wine business about ten years ago. She did...

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Review: Saviah Cellars Winery

In late March, I paid a visit to the Saviah Cellars winery, which is located about 10 minutes south of downtown Walla Walla. Having enjoyed a bottle of the Saviah 2005 Malbec, I was eager to taste the 2006 vintage in hopes of getting more. On the Sunday of my visit, I was greeted by a friendly young woman who offered eager pours but seemed a bit reserved when it came to going beyond the bottle with each wine. Fortunately, there were some detailed winemaker notes available with each of the four wines poured on this day, which included a...

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May 16, 2009

Dobbes 2007 Grande Assemblage Cuvée Pinot Noir

What a terrific wine the Dobbes 2007 Grande Assemblage Cuvée Pinot Noir is. In the glass, this Oregon pinot noir ($26) was a light ruby red delivering strawberry, raspberry, and cherry fruit to the nose along with hints of truffles, fennel, white pepper and dusty earth. I really enjoyed the red berry fruit flavors and balanced acidity that led to a lush and long silky finish. We paired the Dobbes pinot (13.5%) with grilled Jamaican jerk chicken thighs, fresh Washington asparagus, and steamed herb rice. This wine was a wonderful complement to our meal and one that I am...

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May 09, 2009

Cayuse 2005 God Only Knows Grenache

After seeing some of the rave reviews about this wine and then trying it for myself over dinner recently, I could not help but think, "God only knows what the fuss is all about..." or maybe it's better put "God only knows how anyone could claim to taste anything but alcohol..." I am a big fan of grenache and have enjoyed many a Washington rendition of this variety. But I just don't get it with Christophe Baron's version, the God Only Knows 2005 Grenache Cayuse Vinyeards. At 14.7%, this wine packs a bunch beyond that delivered to one's brain...

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When that bottle you've been saving breaks

After doing some wine shopping this morning, I was down in the cellar loading up a rack when suddenly a bottle leapt from one of the shelves. Before I could react, I watched as a long brown bottle of Trust Cellars 2006 Riesling fell to the floor, shattering with a horrifying sound of breaking glass. For over a decade of collecting and storing wine, I have yet to drop a bottle or have one fall off a shelf in my cellar. My first reaction was to look at the label to see what I had lost, a Trust riesling, another...

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May 07, 2009

Sokol Blosser 2006 Pinot Noir Dundee Hills

After a challenging vintage, some wineries will try to embellish the description of their wines in order to overcome any shortcoming in their product. At the same time, there are others who are straight up with the consumer, letting them know of the challenges they faced and the resulting wine they produced. The folks at Sokol Blosser winery clearly fit the latter case, as evidenced by the straight talk they offer about the Sokol Blosser 2006 Pinot Noir Dundee Hills. It wasn't until after I drank this wine that I came upon their candid winemaker notes on their web...

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May 02, 2009

L' Ecole No. 41 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley

For the record, I am extremely biased toward Walla Walla Valley fruit, therefore my subjective palate has a tendency to become fully smitten with wines made from grapes sourced in this area of Washington state. Such is the case with the L' Ecole No. 41 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley, a wine I am left with feelings of regret for not having another bottle to enjoy. I came into possession of this wine as part of a mixed case I won well over a year ago after completing a customer survey for Northwest Palate magazine. In the glass,...

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Cristom 2007 Pinot Noir Mt Jefferson Cuvee

What a terrific Oregon pinot noir. In the glass, the Cristom Vineyards 2007 Pinot Noir Mt Jefferson Cuvee Willamette Valley (13.5%) is a clear, ruby red giving off scents of dusty earth and perfumed notes of strawberry/raspberry fruit and mint. On the palate, the Cristom has a very nice, clean mouth feel, with red berry fruit flavors and balanced acidity, all leading to a deliciously long finish. We paired the Mt Jefferson cuvee , which is a blend of fruit from 13 different vineyards, with fresh wild King salmon which was seasoned with fennel salt and olive oil and...

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April 29, 2009

Barnard Griffin 2008 Rosé of Sangiovese

The Barnard Griffin 2008 Rosé of Sangiovese (12.5%) is a bright cherry Kool-Aid color in the glass, delivering somewhat sour strawberry fruit notes on the nose. On the palate, this Washington rosé didn't show much in the way of red berry fruit, with a lasting sour twang turning me away. Based on this experience, I would pass on getting another bottle ($10). (Photo courtesy of Barnard Griffin web site) Related Links Tavola Rosso Review Barnard Griffin Wine Web Page...

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A to Z 2008 Oregon Rosé

In the glass, this Oregon sangiovese rosé was a cherry Kool-aid color with notes of dusty cherry and strawberry fruit. The cherry flavors were most prominent on the palate throughout with a somewhat viscous mouth feel. The bright acidity and balanced fruit flavors make the A to Z 2008 Oregon Rosé (13.5%) a good choice for summer foods. And the $11 price point and screw cap top make for a reasonably priced, convenient picnic wine. Overall, we enjoyed this wine and would buy another bottle. (Photo courtesy of A to Z Wineworks Web Site) Related Links A to Z...

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April 26, 2009

Syncline 2008 Rosé Columbia Valley

Syncline rosé is summertime in a glass. It symbolizes all that this season brings us here in Seattle. Warm, sometimes even hot, temperatures, sunny skies, backyard grilling, dining al fresco, and glasses of chilled rosé to enjoy all summer long. My wife and I have a preference for French rosé, with those being lightest in color usually our most favorite. Too often local producers create an over-extracted rosé, resulting in a drink that is more liked spiked Kool-Aid than wine. The Syncline 2008 Rosé Columbia Valley (13.8%) is a clear light salmon color in the glass offering dusty perfume...

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Patricia Green 2007 Croft Vineyard Pinot Noir

In the glass, this Oregon pinot noir was a medium ruby red, a surprisingly dark color considering how other 2007s in a comparable alcohol range are so light. On the nose, the Patricia Green 2007 Croft Vineyard Pinot Noir Willamette Valley (12.5%) offered notes of strawberry and raspberry fruit with a hint of earth. In the mouth, the Patricia Green pinot came up flat, as it seemed to lack enough acidity. The fruit and earthy flavors dropped off very quickly without any lasting finish. Based on the color and smell of this wine, I expected more. It just didn't...

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April 25, 2009

Dining with Robert Parker's Beau-Frère

On Thursday night, I had the opportunity to dine with Robert Parker's beau-frère, Mike Etzel, who in partnership with his brother-in-law established the aptly named Beaux Frères winery in Oregon during the late eighties. My dinner invitation came from a business vendor, whose team treated our advertising group to an evening of El Gaucho food and Beaux Frères wines. This winemaker's dinner was hosted by Etzel, who ended up sitting at our table for most of the meal, making for an interesting and enlightening experience. I found the circumstances surrounding this free dinner a bit ironic, considering the storm...

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Saffron Mediterranean Kitchen

If there is one way to sum up Saffron, its all about flavor. Chris Ainsworth, chef, and Island Ainsworth, proprietor, have crafted a menu that truly celebrates flavorful food. Using fresh, local ingredients, a variety of seasonings, and a Mediterranean style of cooking, the Ainsworths have created a restaurant that is unique in the Walla Walla Valley. On the two occasions my wife and I have dined at Saffron Mediterranean Kitchen, we sat at the "chef's table" located adjacent to the open kitchen area. Being so close to the action, we felt as if we were dining in the...

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April 20, 2009

It's time for Pacific Northwest rosé

Almost a month into spring and the temperatures are finally getting above 70 degrees. With sunny skies and warmer temperatures, we have moved our table outside to celebrate some springtime meals. Along the way, we're starting to open a variety of newly released Washington and Oregon rosés. While visiting a couple of wine retailers this past weekend, I've amassed a collection of Pacific Northwest rosé from the 2008 vintage. Should be fun in the coming days/weeks to pop open some old favorites and newly discovered producers. You can expect a line up of tasting notes in the coming weeks focused...

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