I am not a big fan of Oregon Pinot gris, as most seem monochromatic to me. I rarely buy it, opting instead for more interesting white varieties from the state such as Chardonnay and Riesling. My subjective palate even finds Pinot blanc more intriguing than most Pinot gris.

The Biggio Hamina 2009 Pinot Grigio Cougar's Mark Vineyard Willamette Valley (12.9%) is an exception and enough of a standout that I would definitely buy more of this $17 wine. In the glass, this wine was a clear, light straw color, providing tropical notes of melon and pineapple combined with mineral scents of wet stone.

On the palate, the Biggio Hamina Pinot grigio offered a surprisingly light mouthfeel, which was nice considering the plethora of sweet, syrupy Pinot gris out there. This wine lived up to its Italian namesake, with crisp acidity, tropical and citrus flavor, nice minerality, and an intriguing finish (that included hints of fennel/licorice).

Overall, a pleasant surprise, but considering the producer, I should have known better. With this variety, Todd Hamina has once again taken me down a path I did not expect, but am glad for having followed him. Just like what he has done with Pinot noir, Riesling, and even Syrah, Todd is doing something magical with Pinot grigio/gris.

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