Over the last year, I have read a variety of columns, articles and posts regarding the high levels of alcohol in wine. While I welcome more focus on this important issue, it seems most reviewers approach this topic speaking in general terms, as they most often do whenever imparting criticism.

There is a tendency to call out states (e.g., California) or regions (e.g., Amadour County), but rarely specific wines or wineries. Reviewers are all too eager to lament high alcohol, but none seem willing to take the step toward disclosing alcohol levels in the wines they review.

A few cases in point.

Paul Gregutt of The Seattle Times has commented on the high levels of alcohol in a variety of columns, with the most recent being a reflection on reader input:

"I hear from many readers turning away from super-jammy, oaky, high-alcohol wines. Though 16- and even 17-percent alcohol monsters continue to be made, the trend is toward wines, both white and red, that are more expressive of place, with layered, elegant flavors of fruit, mineral and acid."

Andy Perdue of Wine Press Northwest went so far as to call out a specific California winery, suggesting there are lessons to be learned for folks in our region:

"An ounce of sanity is emerging from a sea of overripe California wine - and there are lessons here for the Pacific Northwest...Thank goodness for a smidgeon of sanity in the world of wine."

Based on my review, it appears that neither Paul nor Andy disclose alcohol levels for any wines they review. I wonder why?

I posed this question to one reviewer and was informed that space constraints limit the inclusion of alcohol percentages. It was also cited that alcohol levels are usually not accurate, as wineries have a +/- .5% leeway in designating their percentage.

Frankly, I don't buy either justification.

If a columnist were truly focused on satisfying the needs of his or her readership, then space would be allocated. Why wouldn't a writer want to serve the best interests of his or her readers? In terms of accurate labeling, this issue is no different from retail prices. Most reviewers will disclose the price of a wine, even though this might fluctuate by +/- 10% or 20% depending on where you shop. What should stop any reviewer from treating alcohol levels the same way?

In the same post referenced above, Andy Perdue admits to tracking alcohol levels but makes none of this information available in his magazine's wine reviews:

"In our database of wines we've reviewed over the past several years, we've kept track of alcohols - and they are rising. During harvest, we hear winemakers talking about 26, 27 and 28 brix (a measurement of sugar levels in the grapes). We regularly see Syrahs, Merlots and Cabs in the 14.5%-and-higher range. We see Rieslings reach into the 13%-14% range, where they become heavy and lacking in distinction."

As noted earlier on this blog, it appears there may be an unspoken code to not disclose alcohol levels, as this might put a reviewer's gravy train at risk. Just imagine if alcohol levels appeared next to all of those recommended wines, the correlations between high octane and high scores might suddenly become apparent. Informed consumers might take notice, putting sales at risk.

Clearly, this must be the primary reason Robert Parker doesn't disclose alcohol in his reviews. It would confirm what everyone already knows about him awarding over-extracted, high octane wines with high scores. He craves over-ripe, cocktail style wines, which usually come with high alcohol.

Setting aside Parker, there is an opportunity here for our region's wine reviewers to take the initiative and start disclosing alcohol levels. Otherwise, I recommend that reviewers refrain from telling us how many consumers are now favoring low alcohol wines or how those making and/or retailing 15% or 16% wines are having trouble selling product to customers. It seems hypocritical to call out a need and then consciously ignore it.

We, the consumer, want less of the general criticisms and more of the specific disclosures that are required to distinguish between wines that might or might not suit our tastes. And this call for more disclosure applies to wine bloggers, not just the wine critics in the mainstream media. Everyone commenting on wine, regardless of medium, should start disclosing alcohol levels. We will all be better off as a result.