Along highway 99W in the heart of Dundee, you'll find Tina's Restaurant, which is across the street from the Argyle Winery. Since 1991, Tina's has been serving lunch and dinner to locals and tourists alike. The restaurant is named after its founder, Tina Bergen, who along with her husband, David, moved from Portland to Yamhill County in 1988, well before the Dundee Hills area was recognized for its superb wine.

I arrived for lunch on a day when I was planning to visit a few wineries in the area. Like The Dundee Bistro, its next door neighbor, Tina's is a convenient starting point for any wine country tour. Both offer local food and a decent wine list representing local producers. But based on my experiences, there were clear differences in how each approached their menus, setting, and service.

When I entered, I was a bit taken aback by how somber the place was inside. Granted, the main dining area had only one table filled, while the back room appeared full. But even after more folks arrived, the place remained quiet as a library. Any pause in conversation brought this uneasy silence to the place, only to be shattered when someone new arrived or a table got their food. For a place that was meant to celebrate food and wine, it was downright depressing.

Compounding matters, my server, who appeared to be flying solo on this day, approached her role with stoic efficiency. I tried to engage her on what wines by the glass were drinking well, which seemed to surprise her. I then asked if the '06 Ransom Pinot Gris, a winery they were featuring, was good and she shook her head in agreement. My server disappeared and then a while later appeared with my glass of wine ready to take my order.

Tina's appears to favor more simple food preparation, whether for their weekday lunches (Tue thru Fri) or nightly dinners. I opted for the pork loin sandwich, which included a side salad. About ten or fifteen minutes later, the food appeared, with my server delivering it with utmost efficiency and asking, "can I bring you anything else?". I was hoping for a small uplift in her personality, maybe a token "enjoy" or even go so far as to say, "you're going to love this pork sandwich with your wine!". Wishful thinking.

The plate looked great with this beautiful pork loin falling out of the sandwich with a honey mustard sauce dripping off. The side salad was comprised of fresh greens, a light olive oil and vinegar dressing, a sprinkling of cheese, and a handful of hazelnuts. My mouth started watering with the sight and smell of this lunch. And boy did it deliver.

The hot sandwich was fantastic, with the pork and sauce heated just right and the fresh tomato and lettuce providing a cool complement. The salad was perfect in its simplicity and offered a nice bitterness to help cut the richness of the sauce. While feasting on my lunch, I studied the dinner menu, which offered a variety of dishes that appeared to be much simpler fare than that offered next door.

In fact, I was starting to wish I had come for the evening meal instead, as the prospect of dining on one of their dinners in a full, lively setting seemed appealing at that moment. And hopefully the wait staff would show more promise and personality in the evening as well.

Between my lunch and the bill, no other contact was made by my server. To her credit, she was very busy working a half dozen other tables by herself. Even still, it would have made for a much more enjoyable lunch experience had she shown some enthusiasm for what she was doing. When the bill arrived, there was no "how was it?" nor was there ever any mention of a "thank you" after paying. At least she was consistent in her service, as her approach was the same at every table served.

The stoic service and somber setting aside, I would definitely eat at Tina's Restaurant on my next visit to Dundee. Based on the quality of food at lunch, I can't wait to get back for dinner to try their roasted duck breast, braised rabbit, Harrison Ranch tenderloin, or Oregon lamb. And to pair anyone of these dishes with a Yamhill County pinot noir would be a meal made in heaven.