What I Drank With Dinner (WIDWD)

While enjoying a grilled flank steak with a bottle of Syncline Subduction Red wine on Thursday night, I decided to open the Sapolil 2003 Syrah Columbia Valley as well. The bottle, given to me earlier in the year, had been on my cellar shelf for some time, with obvious marks indicating an attempt at opening. You see, I had tried opening it once before, but the wax dipped top was like a chastity belt; a very cumbersome, if not dangerous, packaging option which I abhor with any bottle capped in this manner.

The first time I tried to get thru the wax top, I became so frustrated that I almost tossed the bottle in the trash. I was successful the second time, but not without risking life and limb to open the damn thing. I understand why some wineries choose to cap their bottles with wax, for it offers something unique to their packaging. However, I wonder if Sapolil is aware as to how hard it is for the customer to open their wine.

It took a lot of time and effort to cut away the wax, which gripped the top as if it had been cemented onto the bottle. I almost sliced my hand several times trying to get thru the wax cap. For me, fighting a wax top is not about enjoying wine, as it seems to contradict the notion that wine should be easily accessible and approachable. There are exceptions here, with some following the lead of Maker's Mark by imbedding a tab that you can pull, thus cleanly releasing the wax cap from the bottle.

Sapolil appears to have chosen the more cost-effective approach, probably hand-dipping each bottle in a cheap, super-glue like substance that discourages you from easily opening their wine. Again, I understand the packaging decision, as some believe this makes a bottle more attractive, possibly signifying a "fancy wine". In fact, this is what Kari, my wife, said when she saw the bottle, although her tone may have suggested sarcasm. Unfortunately, Sapolil's attempts at being fancy in their packaging came up short, as not only was their wax top cumbersome, but the front label is askew.

All this frustration with the bottle reminded me of my experience visiting the Sapolil tasting room in downtown Walla Walla last July. I was making my way down Main Street when I saw a sign encouraging me to stop in and taste Sapolil wine. I entered a door and found myself in a glass-walled enclosure; closet is probably a better word for it was a very tiny space that was just not conducive to drinking wine.

In this fish bowl of a tasting room, I was surrounded by an antique shop that apparently Sapolil had co-opted space from to pour wine. With no one running the tasting room, I stood there staring at the four bottles of Sapolil wine on a glass table in front of me. After several minutes, I noticed a gentleman in the antique shop on the phone. Unfortunately, he either didn't see me or chose to ignore me, therefore after another five minutes or so I turned around and left.

My impression of the Sapolil tasting room?

It just seemed to lack any care or consideration. I am willing to cut folks slack when it comes to start up operations, but if you're going to have a presence in downtown Walla Walla, then you've got to show you care. Partitioning space in an antique shop, enclosing it in glass, putting out a few bottles, and leaving it unattended is not showing you care. I entered curious and ready to discover something about Sapolil, but left frustrated, just as I had been with opening their bottle.

Sapolil has an interesting story to tell, as evidenced by the bottle's back label describing the origins of their name as well as the details provided on their web site. It's just a shame their bottle and tasting room experienced combined to form a frustrating and fruitless experience for me. How about you? Have you experienced something similar or different from that described here? Please share your feedback in the comments section.

P.S. After publishing this post, I realized I had forgotten to comment on how the Sapolil Syrah tasted. Little if any fruit, astringent on the backside, with the 14.5% alcohol obliterating everything on the finish. Not anything to write home, 'er blog about, obviously.